Mount Kenya Technical Climbing

We have two common routes for technical climbing up Mt Kenya to Batian, the highest peak at 5,199m and Nelion peak at 5,100m.

1) The NORMAL standard route starts from Austrian hut This is the most used route on the Southern /Eastern side of the mountain. It’s the only one where we have abseil rings fixed. Climbers start from the Austrian hut very early in the morning around 0400hrs. They hike across the Lewis glacier and up to the base. This takes about 2 hours. From the base, the climb is easy with the first 3 pitches scrambled using a running belay. Then come to Mackinders Chimney. It’s a bit tricky so you have the rabbit hole as the alternative. Both pitches are grade IV. From there you come to the 1.00 o’clock gully. Then to another easy 4 pitches which bring you to the Bailles Bivy

After the hut you come to the Mackinders Gendarme. This pitch will lead you to the De Graph Variation. This is the most difficult part of the climb, it is IV +. A bit difficult without good holds and steps but the rock is quite v+rough which helps you move easily. After this you do another easy part of Grade III to lead you to another tricky traverse, which is short, about 20 metres. After that you have two easy pitches to Nelion and in fact the last one is donkey walking. If you are crossing to Batian you scramble for 50 meters to an anchor where you fix a rope to cross the Gate of Mist, then do two short pitches of 25 meters to Batian.

NB: You require ice climbing equipment i.e. crampons, ice axe.
The whole climb is made up of 18 pitches. It’s the easiest climb to Nelion and Batian.

The best months to climb the standard route are, December, January and
February.

2) The NORTHFACE standard route starts from Kami hut after Shipton camp 4300m.
If you are planning to get to the top, you have to take 7 to 8 days, including 2 days climbing. When you are doing North Face, you have to overnight at Firmin tower, either putting a tent or bivouc outside. You don’t need crampons, unless you want to traverse the gate of mist to Nelion.

 Below are the details of the Northface Route

The Northface standard route starts from Shiptons Camp or from Kami Hut at 0330 hrs – 2 hrs hike to the base of climbing. The start is Grade IV+. The first two pitches are easy for scrambling, Another Grade III then Grade 11 and a Grade IV to get to the amphitheatre. From there an easy donkey walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerge here. One up the Tower quite tricky about Grade V in a small gully not enough to fit in. The other is around the tower, easier but longer.
After that you come to the knife edge you do a Grade IV+ pitch and another Grade IV pitch before you come to a traverse that leads you to the Shiptons notch. At the Shiptons notch rocks are quite lose and need to be handled with care. After  you are through with  Shiptons notch, then reach Batian 5,199m. After reaching carefully the top, then abseil down; you do a lot of down climbing. This is the longest climb. It’s 23 pitches.

Best done from June to early October.

All the routes are Graded IV and V most of the pitches.
For the climbing equipment, you have to bring your own harness, climbing boot, crampons, ice axe, warm sleeping bag, bivy bag and light tent. The other climbing equipment like friends, figure of eight, stopper, ropes will be provided.Our Mountain guides are well experienced on technical knowledge, having being trained by N.O.L.S (The American National Outdoor Leadership School)and working with Kenya Wildlife Service (K.W.S) helping them with the mountain rescues in Mount Kenya National Park.